A new tree has been planted in your yard. So, what’s the next steps? An optimistic gesture that benefits future generations is planting a tree. As the adage goes, you should have planted that tree around 20 years ago. Now is the second-best time.
Whether you’ve just planted a sapling in your yard or are thinking about doing so, how you treat it in its first few years will profoundly affect the tree for years to come. Complete but simple enough, care for a newly planted tree is essential. The following are some helpful hints for maintaining recently planted trees.
Preparations You Should Make Before Planting a Tree
Placement
Placement, both in your yard and in the ground, is crucial when planting a new tree. When deciding where to plant the tree, consider its eventual size and spread. Will its roots burst and alter your fence line, or will it stay small and compact?
Most trees, including dwarf trees, do best when given at least 10 to 20 feet of space from nearby structures, utility boxes, fence lines, and other large trees. Due to the expansive nature of a large tree’s root system, thirty feet or more in all directions may be necessary.
One must also take one’s height into account. Is your planting spot free of overhead obstacles like dead branches, wires, or buildings? Some trees will remain small enough not to interfere, but many native and private trees can get quite tall and should be trimmed if they are near any overhead power lines.
Buried utility wires can also cause major problems. There are public resources that can help you find out the depth of your pipes and utility lines so you can plant safely.
Planting
We suggest planting your tree in the early spring or fall when soil temperatures are mild, and the tree’s natural growth cycle is just beginning.
Dig a hole twice as wide as your tree’s container but at the same depth. The container can be used as a depth gauge; you can stop digging when it reaches the ground. The native soil should be combined with any additives, such as starting fertiliser, compost, or other soil amendments. Your soil combination should have good drainage while holding sufficient water and minerals.
Carefully remove the tree from its pot or unwrap the burlap from the root ball. Lightly massaging the roots from side to side, from bottom to top, will prevent root compaction.
Place the tree so that the soil it was shipped in is flush with the surrounding ground, and then fill in the hole around the tree’s roots. Have a friend or family member help you keep the tree upright while backfilling. Your tree will be planted straight with their assistance. Lightly pat the earth as you travel.
When the tree is securely planted, you may install tree stands or other support systems. After their first year, many trees can be planted without tree pegs since their natural movement in the wind helps to promote strong root support. Wrapping the cords from the tree stand in a protective barrier, such as a cut-up piece of old garden hose, will prevent damage to the young trunk’s bark.
Mulch should then be spread over the area. Mulch should be applied in an even layer over three inches deep. Keep the mulch at least 3 to 4 inches away from the base of your new tree to ensure its healthy development. Wood chips are a great example of organic materials that may enrich soil and keep moisture levels stable.
Irrigation
The first six to eight months after planting a tree is critical for establishing a watering routine. Whether or not your tree needs more than the rest of your garden plants depends on its size when you plant it.
If you fill a Water Gator bag to the top once or twice a week, the water will slowly drop into the soil at just the correct position for a young tree, ensuring that it gets adequate water every time. A watering hose could be more convenient if your trees are far apart. Sprinklers may need to provide more coverage.
Hold off on giving the tree more water until the top few inches of soil feel dry before you do so again. When a young tree is overwatered, the roots might rot or drown, which is worse than underwatering. Check how quickly the earth dries after watering your garden, as drainage rates vary from place to place. Mulch is great for water retention so you can water your plants less frequently.
Remember that deep, infrequent waterings are preferable to frequent, shallow ones. Your tree’s watering needs will gradually decrease as it matures, eventually only requiring it during prolonged dry spells or extremely hot weather.
Pest and Pruning Control
Pruning young trees should only be necessary to remove diseased or dead branches. Pruning for airflow and shaping is something to be concerned about only when trees are old. Most trees benefit from having their branches pruned in the winter before new growth begins in the spring. It would help if you didn’t prune your young tree in the dead of winter or when it’s actively growing.
Tips For Pruning New Trees
Follow these rules to prevent water waste and tree damage:
Deep Watering.
Watering young trees consistently helps keep them healthy and helps prevent illness. By watering at depth, you can stop shallow roots from growing and promote the development of deep, strong roots.
Once a week, dig down four to six inches to check the soil moisture.
The soil has to be damp but not soaked.
Recognise The Indicators Of Drought Stress.
Are the leaves falling off, turning yellow, or curling up?
The tree faces competition from weeds and other plants for water and nutrients.
Do not let grass or weeds grow around the tree’s base.
Mulch prevents weeds and retains soil moisture.
Mulch the soil to a depth of 3-5 inches around the tree’s circumference, beginning a few inches from the trunk’s base and extending outwards in all directions.
The Trees in Your Yard Won’t Get Enough Water From Your Lawn Sprinklers.
Watering your lawn for 5-10 minutes at a time will only saturate the top few inches of soil, encouraging shallow, weak roots to grow.
Prevent Chemical Exposure in Young Trees.
The roots and foliage of a young tree are more susceptible to damage from pesticides and herbicides.
Monitoring
If you keep a watch on your tree when it’s young, you can prevent several problems from occuring later on. Always look for warning signs when purchasing a new tree. What to watch out for is as follows:
- Outside of autumn, the leaves are a brownish yellow. Check the leaves for any white or black spots or covering.
- An early fall of leaves in the spring or summer.
- Leaf wilt can take several forms, including burnt, burned, or drooping leaves.
- Individual branches can identify Twig and branch dieback with no leaves.
- A tree with peeling bark has pieces of bark hanging from it or has lost its outer layer entirely.
It’s crucial to give your newly planted trees the attention they need to flourish, especially during their first few years:
Year 1-3
Inform others of their current location.
If you want to protect your newly planted trees from being mowed over or otherwise damaged, let those in charge of upkeep know where they are located.
Weeding
Weeding is the first and foremost action you must take to ensure a healthy start for your trees. For the first two years, you may help your tree thrive by clearing the area around it (at least 1 metre in diameter) of weeds and grass.
Straw bales or bark chips can reduce weeds. To keep it from blowing away or spreading, spread it to a depth of about 10 centimetres and add more each year. You can also purchase mulch mats and secure them in place with stakes.
Weeds can be controlled with chemical treatments when other methods, including mulching or hand weeding, aren’t viable options. Spray a ring around the trunks of the trees, leaving a diameter of 1 metre that is clear of weeds. Use caution when applying this insecticide, and avoid getting the chemical on the tree itself. It would help if you chose a professional who works according to industry standards since you must follow all instructions and guidelines regarding chemical use.
Watering
Watering discourages the growth of deep roots by promoting them to grow closer to the soil’s surface. Therefore, your trees should be OK without it. Saturate the soil to ensure the water gets down to the roots if there has been a prolonged dry spell and you decide to water.
Mowing
Constantly mowing the grass stimulates new growth, increasing competition for water. If you must mow, please be mindful of the trees and security posts.
Verify Your Tree Protectors
The guards, canes, or stakes you use to keep your trees from blowing over should be vertical and firmly planted in the ground in case of high winds. Carefully replace the guard after getting rid of the grass growing inside it.
Pests
If you suspect that pests have caused damage to the tube’s interior, inspect the tree’s stems and protectors. Tree guards should be driven firmly into the ground, and the ground around your trees should be weed-free.
Year 3-10
Remove Tree Guards
Guards should be removed when they crack or deteriorate (typically after 5-10 years). They have served their purpose and may now stunt development. To avoid harming the local wildlife, please responsibly dispose of the plastics. The PP tubes and PVC coils are both durable and long-lasting. Both can be recycled if you can access the proper facilities; enquire with your municipal government.
Pruning
This is optional but will assist in generating a diversified canopy structure by encouraging trees to grow upward rather than outward.
You should buy an excellent pruning saw if you want a neat cut near the tree’s trunk. The branch collar, a bulge at the branch’s base, should be preserved by making a square cut. Never cut a branch flush with the main stem, leaving a wider wound that invites disease and decay.
The winter dormancy of most native trees makes them ideal for pruning. Cherry and walnut trees, on the other hand, should be pruned in the summer to prevent disease and sap leakage. When in doubt, consult an expert.
Coppicing
It would help if you first cut the tree down to the ground to accomplish this. Flowers on the forest floor benefit from coppicing because more light can reach them. Depending on the type and the growth rate, your trees may be ready for coppicing in seven to ten years.
Disease
Many different common diseases can infect your trees. However, young trees are usually immune. Even if your trees suffer frost damage during a very harsh winter, they should be able to recover.
Thinning
Around the 10th year, when the trees are around 7 metres tall, thinning is typically performed. The cycle typically lasts between five and eight years. Clearing off about one-fifth of trees will lessen competition for resources like sunlight and water. By making more area for the existing trees, they will be able to grow into healthier, more robust specimens.
Find the fastest-growing trees and have them cut down if the circumference of your trees at chest height is more than 10 centimetres.
Conclusion
Planting a tree is a crucial step for future generations, and proper care is essential for its growth. Before planting, consider the tree’s size, spread, and height, as well as any overhead obstacles. Plant in early spring or fall when soil temperatures are mild and the tree’s natural growth cycle is just beginning. Dig a hole twice as wide as the tree’s container but at the same depth, and mix native soil with additives like fertilizer, compost, or other soil amendments.
Remove the tree from its pot or unwrap the burlap from the root ball, massaging the roots to prevent compaction. Place the tree in a flush hole around its roots, with a friend or family member helping. Install tree stands or other support systems, and apply mulch in an even layer over three inches deep. Keep the mulch at least 3 to 4 inches away from the base to ensure healthy development.
Irrigate the tree for six to eight months, filling a Water Gator bag once or twice a week to ensure adequate watering. Hold off on giving the tree more water until the top few inches of soil feel dry before watering again. Water deep, infrequent waterings, as they will gradually decrease as the tree matures. Pruning young trees should only be necessary to remove diseased or dead branches, and pruning for airflow and shaping is only important when trees are old. Most trees benefit from pruning in the winter before new growth begins in the spring.
To prevent water waste and tree damage, follow these tips: Deep Watering: Water young trees consistently to prevent shallow roots from growing and promote deep, strong roots. Recognize signs of drought stress, such as leaves falling off, turning yellow, or curling up, and mulch to prevent weeds and retain soil moisture. Prevent chemical exposure in young trees by using lawn sprinklers to only saturate the top few inches of soil, encouraging shallow, weak roots to grow. Monitor your tree for warning signs, such as brownish yellow leaves outside of autumn, early fall of leaves, leaf wilt, twig and branch dieback, and peeling bark.
In the first few years, inform others of your tree’s current location, weed, water, mow, verify tree protectors, inspect pests, remove guards when they crack or deteriorate, prune trees upward, coppice trees, and avoid disease. Cut branches flush with the main stem to prevent wider wounds and disease. Coppicing helps trees grow upward, allowing more light to reach flowers on the forest floor. Young trees are usually immune to common diseases, and clearing off about one-fifth of trees around the 10th year can lessen competition for resources like sunlight and water. Find the fastest-growing trees and have them cut down if their circumference is more than 10 centimeters.
In summary, following these tips will help keep your newly planted trees healthy and prevent water waste and damage.
Content Summary:
- A new tree has been planted in your yard.
- As the adage goes, you should have planted that tree around 20 years ago.
- Complete but simple enough, care for a newly planted tree is essential.
- The following are some helpful hints for maintaining recently planted trees.
- Placement, both in your yard and in the ground, is crucial when planting a new tree.
- When deciding where to plant the tree, consider its eventual size and spread.
- Planting We suggest planting your tree in the early spring or fall when soil temperatures are mild, and the tree’s natural growth cycle is just beginning.
- Dig a hole twice as wide as your tree’s container but at the same depth.
- Place the tree so that the soil it was shipped in is flush with the surrounding ground, and then fill in the hole around the tree’s roots.
- Keep the mulch at least 3 to 4 inches away from the base of your new tree to ensure its healthy development.
- The first six to eight months after planting a tree is critical for establishing a watering routine.
- Whether or not your tree needs more than the rest of your garden plants depends on its size when you plant it.
- A watering hose could be more convenient if your trees are far apart.
- Mulch is great for water retention so you can water your plants less frequently.
- Your tree’s watering needs will gradually decrease as it matures, eventually only requiring it during prolonged dry spells or extremely hot weather.
- Pruning for airflow and shaping is something to be concerned about only when trees are old.
- Most trees benefit from having their branches pruned in the winter before new growth begins in the spring.
- It would help if you didn’t prune your young tree in the dead of winter or when it’s actively growing.
- Follow these rules to prevent water waste and tree damage: Deep Watering.
- Watering young trees consistently helps keep them healthy and helps prevent illness.
- Do not let grass or weeds grow around the tree’s base.
- The roots and foliage of a young tree are more susceptible to damage from pesticides and herbicides.
- If you keep a watch on your tree when it’s young, you can prevent several problems from occuring later on.
- Always look for warning signs when purchasing a new tree.
- An early fall of leaves in the spring or summer.
- Weeding is the first and foremost action you must take to ensure a healthy start for your trees.
- For the first two years, you may help your tree thrive by clearing the area around it (at least 1 metre in diameter) of weeds and grass.
- Spray a ring around the trunks of the trees, leaving a diameter of 1 metre that is clear of weeds.
- Therefore, your trees should be OK without it.
- If you must mow, please be mindful of the trees and security posts.
- Tree guards should be driven firmly into the ground, and the ground around your trees should be weed-free.
- You should buy an excellent pruning saw if you want a neat cut near the tree’s trunk.
- The branch collar, a bulge at the branch’s base, should be preserved by making a square cut.
- The winter dormancy of most native trees makes them ideal for pruning.
- Cherry and walnut trees, on the other hand, should be pruned in the summer to prevent disease and sap leakage.
- When in doubt, consult an expert.
- Depending on the type and the growth rate, your trees may be ready for coppicing in seven to ten years.
- Many different common diseases can infect your trees.
- However, young trees are usually immune.
- Even if your trees suffer frost damage during a very harsh winter, they should be able to recover.
- Find the fastest-growing trees and have them cut down if the circumference of your trees at chest height is more than 10 centimetres.
FAQs About Trees
Is Staking Necessary For A Newly Planted Tree, And When Should It Be Done?
Staking is typically only necessary for taller or top-heavy trees. If needed, stake the tree at planting time and remove the stakes after one year.
What Should I Do If A Newly Planted Tree Appears Stressed Or Not Thriving?
Address any issues promptly. Ensure proper watering, mulching, and soil conditions. Consulting with a certified arborist can help diagnose and treat any problems.
Can I Use Herbicides Around A Newly Planted Tree To Control Weeds?
It’s best to avoid herbicides near newly planted trees, as they can harm the tree. Use mulch to suppress weeds instead.
How Can I Protect A Newly Planted Tree From Lawnmower Damage?
Create a mulch ring or use protective tree guards to prevent lawnmower damage to the tree’s trunk.
When Can I Expect A Newly Planted Tree To Be Fully Established And Self-Sufficient?
The time for a tree to be fully established varies by species and local conditions. In general, it may take several years for a tree to become self-sufficient and less reliant on care.
